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Whenever compiling a list of London’s best dining spots, one might anticipate renowned Michelin-starred venues. Yet, situated near the top among these food titans is a unpretentious salonu found in a outlying part of northern London.

A Shocking Accolade

The compact Turkish spot, specialising in the specialties of Mersin, a city on Turkey’s Mediterranean coast, has been declared the 4th finest restaurant in the capital by a influential gastronomic guide. The honour has left the owners totally surprised.

“I’m completely surprised,” remarks a owner’s son, alluding to his family’s relentless work that led to their small restaurant achieving such a prominent ranking on a respected 99-strong list.

A Charm of Modesty

This compact space, which used to be a simple cafe before its transformation into a buzzing destination, has maintained much of its original character. It accommodates just more than 20 people and, beyond the impressive live cooking display, the setup remains largely unchanged. “It is a compact and cozy place,” says the owner.

The Namesake Offering: Tantuni

Ultimately, it is focused on the cuisine, and this eatery definitely succeeds. The restaurant’s signature dish, tantuni, is a straightforward delight. The meat—lamb or lamb or chicken—is steamed to preserve a moist, juicy quality.

The meat is then added into a large pan with spices and oil, which are added in gradually. When the meaty mixture bubbles up, freshly made lavaş—a soft bread—is slapped on top to take in all the flavours. Finely sliced onions and a handful of parsley are placed before the tasty meat is folded tightly inside.

The wrap is usually eaten with a drizzle of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The outcome is a strong burst of flavour, with gentle hints of sumac, bold onions and rich, paprika-red oil bringing it all in harmony.

Other Than the Basic Tantuni

Another option is yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is chopped and topped with yogurt, tomato sauce and aromatic brown butter. A respected food critic labelled this dish “one of London’s few perfect, no-notes dishes”.

For a sweet finish, the restaurant’s künefe goes down a treat. It is doused in lighter syrup than found elsewhere, resulting in it a more intense, nuttier and more balanced profile.

Outranking the Titans

Notably, this modest spot has outplaced several illustrious three-Michelin-starred restaurants. It finds itself near the peak of the list, trailing other high-profile dining destinations.

Whereas two people could easily leave the restaurant satisfied for less than £25, similar meals at top-tier establishments can cost significantly more than that amount.

The Creed of Warmth

The restaurant is also among several Turkish restaurants featured and is located well beyond the city’s most expensive zones. “It’s not about luxury. London is an costly city. It is belief that in an expensive place you’re going to have the finest service and finest food but I don’t subscribe to that,” says the owner.

“I believe what is paramount is friendliness, kindness and somewhere you can be yourself and be calm.”

The view is shared by the list’s curator, who suggested that if he was in a role of authority, he would “require to make every chef in London train at this spot as a masterclass, to teach them the pitfalls of overthinking, and to show what is achievable if you do only a handful of – or three – things to their utmost best”.

The Journey of Dedication

Unlike most chefs heading kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the driving force behind the food didn’t work at fancy restaurants. “I am really proud of our shop and our mum,” says her son.

A lot of restaurants need years to become successful, but this eatery first started seven years ago. Its popularity is thanks to tireless, seven-day weeks of work.

“Our mum would be extremely tired. She would buy ingredients in the morning and make the food in the afternoon. All of it is handmade; she would do all of this. She is a solo parent and she balanced a personal life but her friends would visit to help her. She was raising children and a house to look after as well. Each of these roles forged her into what she is now: a remarkable person,” he shares.

A Achievement for the People

This restaurant’s recognition is likely to echo outside its own doors. “I believe numerous people would be happy, as I am, because the Turkish community is a significant part of London,” concludes the owner, emphasising the greater importance of this gastronomic triumph.